BK always says

take another stroke before taking off late on a wave. Otherwise you end up on top of it, then falling down the face. But do I listen? Noooooooooo. Instead, I stand up fast, afraid I won’t make the drop, and end up tangling ugly with my board.

At least now I won’t need those collagen injections.

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2 thoughts on “BK always says”

  1. Ha! It’s not nearly as gruesome as it was – but it was my bloodiest surf injury to date. Usually I just come away with some stellar bruises.I am in no danger of ever thinking I’m cool.

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