surf session #10

Crowded Camel. Every parking spot from the lot to the lookout filled. Trucks lining the side of the road, surfers tugging in and out of neoprene in all directions. The Crayola smell of surf wax heavy in the air.
No wonder – a look below reveals beautiful, clean, chest-to-head high waves. Combine that with the warm sunshine and watercolor sky and the picture is of heaven, albeit a very crowded heaven.

My body ached with exhaustion from all the extra biking combined with a serious lack of quality sleep. I caught one wave and couldn’t stand up on two others. Couldn’t stand up? Too pathetic for words, much less for staying out. I let the whitewater push me in, glad to have paddled out, but sad about my poor performance.

I need to fix my back:
sleep better (new mattress/box springs).
lose 20 lbs.
stretch more.

I need:
to surf more.
to surf more.
to surf more.

I can see nirvana on the horizon, but the journey to get there is taking oh-so-long.

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