surf session #12

Jetty. Early. Bobby had the day off and took the kids to school so I could have enough time for a proper morning session. Of course, I hadn’t surfed in forever (again), so my nerves inhibited my enthusiasm. With the buoy reading 4 at 15, I imagined some decent head- to over- surf coming through with a respectable intensity. But, nope. The waves were ultra glassy, but small. The sets only came in about chest-high (some bombers coming through Bunkers, as usual). Which was fine. I was kinda slow on the popping up, but the waves were kinda slow, too. A nice, easy session with a likeable, familiar crowd.

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