surf session #20


Easy, glassy, teensy morning with Nick. Balmy by Humboldt standards. I cheered. We hungout at Camel, amidst several longboarders who made room for Nick, no worries. He rode a few waves to the beach and paddled back grinning. Keeping his blood sugar at a good level worked: snack based on starting number plus exercise equals a good number after. I’m sure the amounts will change, but at least the formula stays the same.

The only flaw in the morning was when I let the boards collide and the 7’6″ gouged the 7’5″. Right in the nose. Ouch.

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