surf session #28

Yesterday morning was the one I’ve been waiting for. The surf details, fun as the session was, don’t matter nearly as much as the pleasant company, as much as the way the sun rose from behind a low-lying cloud, fiery pink and brilliant. The waves were nice, so nice, but it was the rainbow stretching southward that made me smile. All day long I was singing…

“Yes, I woke up this morning
A rainbow filled the sky
Well that was God telling me
Everything is gonna be alright ”
– G. Love and Jack Johnson from “Thicker than Water”


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