surf session #38, #39

Falling behind on my blogging!

Tuesday: Power Poles. Small, clean, hollow.

Friday: Bunkers. Small, clean. A bit more push, but not by much. This short-interval surf (3@7, for example) does not lend a lot of zip to a wave. This summer, I’ve wished more often for a big, fat, floaty longboard that would just vacuum up the waves. They say bigger swell’s on the way, though. Once it picks up to head high, I’m planning to use the Taylor – my 7’8″ gun. I need to get used to it again if I’m going to attempt more serious surf again.

That, and lose 20 pounds. And fix my back.

I do believe it can be done.

In other Humboldt surf news: no shark attacks yet, just sightings, and we’re coming into That Time of Year. Everyone’s holding their breath, wondering, who will it be? Who’s taking the hit for the team? Like some sort of Russian Roulette or less deliberate version of The Lottery.

On a cheerier note, Matt Beard won the Vans Surfer Magazine Cover Art Contest! Amazing!

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