surf session #42

Oh, man. Double oh, man. Yeah. It was all that.

Props to me, too, for dragging my ass out of bed to beat the wind change. And for catching enough waves to see the improvements in my lefts from beginning to end of the session.

The south winds turned heavy north by the afternoon and are expected to stay that way for days; the clean, organized beautiful world vanished, and a junky, sloppy, ugly one took its place. At least down here on the spit. The kids have surf camp in CCity later this week, so the forecast is looking promising from their point of view.


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