surf session #46

Bunkers. Sunny, warm, glassy. The laziness of the morning had changed immediately when I saw the buoys reading 3 at 16, 4 at 16, no wind, and kicked into high gear. Plenty of people out, not just at Bunkers, but all over the peninsula. I had high expectations, which sometimes sets me up for disappointment. The conditions were like this: clean, overhead, shifty. If I had been in the right place at the right time, I could’ve had some great waves. But I was almost always too far in, too far out, too far north, too far south. Twice, I got caught inside and washed to shore. (Ooooh, does that make me mad!) What I caught was OK, but never did I get that oh-this-was-so-worth-it feeling. The morning was lovely, though, and being in the water was nice, but at some point, I cut my losses, caught a wave reforming all the way to shore and called it good.

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