surf session #47

Four-and-a-half hours of sleep — late deadline last night. But I had to go. Conditions still looked good, I had a ride out if I arrived by 7 a.m. and most importantly, I didn’t have to take the kids to school this morning (go, Labor!).

Still overhead at Bunkers. The usual eternal paddle to get to the outside. But it only takes that one wave to make it worth it. (At least for me. Conceivably, some people need more.) And I got that one wave. Late-breaking, long, sweet, overhead right that held and held. A moment to be in the moment. Like a chiropractic adjustment to my brain. Push and pop! and suddenly everything is aligned and I feel so very good.

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2 thoughts on “surf session #47”

  1. It is great you caught the one wave. I am totally in touch with that vibe. I was at the Headwaters on Sunday, and my body ached for two days after my hike to the top of the ridge (about 11 miles). This morning was the finally the morning I had a good bike ride. My legs were no longer aching, and I felt that zone I am accustomed to being in. It made waking up at 5:30 am worthwhile.

    -boy

  2. “It made waking up at 5:30 am worthwhile.”

    And that is no easy feat! Good for you. I’ve never done that Headwaters hike – I hear it’s a killer to the top.

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