Four-and-a-half hours of sleep — late deadline last night. But I had to go. Conditions still looked good, I had a ride out if I arrived by 7 a.m. and most importantly, I didn’t have to take the kids to school this morning (go, Labor!).

Still overhead at Bunkers. The usual eternal paddle to get to the outside. But it only takes that one wave to make it worth it. (At least for me. Conceivably, some people need more.) And I got that one wave. Late-breaking, long, sweet, overhead right that held and held. A moment to be in the moment. Like a chiropractic adjustment to my brain. Push and pop! and suddenly everything is aligned and I feel so very good.

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