surf session #47.5

Went out for the second session of the day. This time with MD. Tide was high. Swell had disappeared. He caught a bunch of waves on his longboard. I paddled around a lot wishing I could show off for all the kids on the beach (Labor Day crowd) and thinking about not thinking about sharks.

Weird thing I forgot to mention earlier: when I arrived at Bunkers in the early a.m., an unmarked tour bus sat in the parking lot. Through the fog, we could see dozens of people wandering toward the beach without obvious explanation. I felt like I’d blinked into some surreal scene in an indie art-house flick.


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