surf session #48

Finally, ideal Jetty conditions (for me): light south winds, 5 at 10, northwest swell. I begged Bobby to take the kids to school – he had the day off and surfed last night – so I would have time for an a.m. session. I paddled out on the 7’6″ as my standard Jetty board (a 7’5″, still fun-shaped, but slightly narrower in the nose, not quite as wide, smaller fins, weighs less) is still undergoing serious ding repair after Nick’s surf camp adventures. The 7’6″ is a great board, shaped by BK for me, based on my first, beloved board, the Arrow.

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This is an ancient photo (2003) of Nick and Kaylee the first summer they surfed. The Arrow is the board on the right.

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Note the blue board. That’s the BK, fresh off the glassing table, prior to having a sea dragon painted in the oval. The dragon has since peeled and needs repainting. The board is now covered in wax and shows some use.

I haven’t surfed the Jetty far too long – paddling out in the channel felt like coming home. Of course, the Jetty shows many moods, and today’s was mild, friendly, fun. But romanticizing the ocean is dangerous. Really, it doesn’t care. Today, though… oh, how I love those Jetty rights. The lefts last longer, but the rights offer this drop, this slingshot toward the channel. I wobbled on the first one, unsure I’d make it, but finding myself on my feet. I noticed a head bobbing in my path and cranked hard up the face to make sure I wouldn’t hit it. Afterwards, B, who is a super good surfer, joked around about how glad he was I didn’t wipe out (I would’ve probably landed smack on top of him, board and all). “I saw you!” I protested. He then gave me props, which was nice, except I think he was nicer – “You totally owned that wave” – than I deserved. Still, one of the bigger (only a bit overhead) and wedgier – “You couldn’t have taken off any deeper!” – waves of the day. I caught some more fun rights, then aimed for a left when I felt the pressure of time-to-go. Sadly, I wiped out on a tiny left, leaving me directly in the path of the surfers catching the waves behind me. After a few deer-in-the-headlights moments, I paddled for shore.

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