surf session #49

taylor-7-8-3.jpg Oh, Taylor, how I love thee…

Bobby missed his chance in the morning, but we had some time in between KSLG and kids to make another Jetty run. I decided to take the Taylor, hoping to re-acclimate to it before charging into fall surf.

The Taylor. This is a serious board. I am not actually worthy of it. This is a board for riding big (head-and-a-half-plus) Jetty, Harbor, Patrick’s. I’ve only surfed one of those breaks so far, and only one season at that size. The Taylor is 7″8″ and narrow enough that switching to it after riding the 22-inch funboards makes me feel fat, especially compared to its sleek, subtle curves. People say Taylors have heavy glass jobs, but also say the heavy glass job makes it better for paddling and more durable. It does paddle surprisingly well – useful when the currents are sucking you out or over.

The swell had dropped some since this morning, which made me both self-conscious about taking a gun into longboard surf and concerned about whether or not I’d even be able to catch a wave. But as usual, the Jetty had a little more happening than appeared. I managed to put myself into several lefts, rather awkwardly at first, but improving with each wave. Hardly impressive, but in this context, “not totally hopeless” was the same as good.

I love this board. Owning it makes me want to become the surfer it deserves.

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