surf session #50

Yesterday, Jetty. An endless supply of peeling waist- to chest-high waves. I made a nice take-off on a left, on one of the set waves. Rights are much easier; the board seems to angle itself properly, I find myself on my feet and sliding down the face somewhat instinctively. With lefts (which is backside to me), I still have to think about what I’m doing each step of the way: paddle, angle, correct, hope, clamber to my feet, swing my arm around, try to make the bottom turn before the whitewater catches up to me. Sometimes it works out, but often my timing is less than perfect, and I end up floundering in the soup. So making that nice takeoff yesterday, albeit a small wave, felt really good. It was a left that felt like a right – and that felt right.


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