surf session #51

One more and I’ll have an average of once per week.

That’s relatively pathetic. As was my lack of wave-catching Saturday. I needed either a longboard or a good shove – or both. Good weather and company at least.

A good friend had a stroke at the beach last Thursday. If you took Poly Sci at CR prior to a few years ago, you know this man. He’d called me that morning on his way to the beach to see if I wanted a ride. No could do – kids to get to school and all that. I found out Friday via a phone call to KSLG and more Saturday night at the Matt Beard art opening when I talked to the people that had been in the water with him. He’d looked real bad and wasn’t catching waves, both of which were unusual. They talked him into going in, but noted how spacy he seemed. A set came; they caught waves and one of them went all the way to shore to check on our friend. He’d collapsed on the sand. Emergency calls were made. The ambulance was met.

The good news is he’s doing “pretty well” down at Stanford Medical, thanks to the quick reaction of the people involved and the “slow leak” nature of the stroke.

Bobby had surfed with him the day before. He hadn’t been feeling 100 percent for a while – migraines – and was taking a beta blocker that made him feel woozy, but told Bobby, “I’m tired of complaining about how getting old sucks.”

Yeah, well, I understand being tired of complaining about the same things (ahem), but in this case? Getting old sucks.

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