surf session #57

No wind at the buoy and a day off from the radio…

At first, as I walked toward the Jetty, board under my arm, air comfortably sun-warmed, sky cloud-free, a light south breeze blowing, the similarity between my days in Leucadia and this Humboldt morning after my return amused me.

Then a friend stopped his truck, waved me over and told me about a shark encounter that had just happened near Camel Rock. Each stroke in the ocean felt like I was plunging my hands into a tub of ice water. Within 40 minutes, the wind clocked around and blew in fog so thick I couldn’t see the shore.

Ah, home.

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