surf session #60

Yesterday, Camel. Not Camel proper, but off Wash Rock. Getting out was like this: wade into the fog, paddle, get slammed back toward shore, wade, paddle, get slammed, stand up, wait for a lull, paddle like hell toward where the horizon would be if it could be seen through the fog, dodge the swirling water indicating wash rock just under the surface, barely crest the next set to arrive in the foggy line-up. “Line-up” meaning five other people: two longboards, two on funboards like me.

I wasn’t expecting much – reports at the top (which we needed, as we couldn’t see the ocean from the lookout due to the thick fog layer) had been “crappy beachbreak action,” “not really doing it” and “well, it’s good exercise” – so when I caught a head-high left that held up and offered a fun race down its face, that’s was all it took to make the paddle out worth it.

Now to find time to hit the Jetty while on deadline… As you can see from the report, upcoming Jennifer-sized surf opportunities are limited. I wish 17-to-18 foot swell excited me, but other than as a spectator, it does not. And I’d rather be participating. This is why I have to get/stay in shape every day. I can’t surf fall and winter otherwise. Goals this year: re-acheive comfort zone of (pre-shark, pre-broken leash, more confident) 2003 (pitching head-and-a-half-plus at the Jetty, for example), surf Harbor, surf Patrick’s. Any one of those would be fine.

TODAY
NW WIND 5 KT…BECOMING SW IN THE AFTERNOON. WIND
WAVES 2 FT OR LESS. W SWELL 4 FT AT 11 SECONDS. PATCHY FOG.

MON
S WIND 10 TO 15 KT…BECOMING W 5 TO 10 KT IN THE AFTERNOON.
WIND WAVES 2 TO 3 FT. NW SWELL 5 TO 6 FT AT 10 SECONDS. SHOWERS
LIKELY.

TUE
S WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 5 TO 7 FT. W SWELL 10 TO
12 FT.
RAIN.

WED
SW WIND 10 TO 20 KT…BECOMING W 10 TO 15 KT. WIND WAVES
3 TO 5 FT. NW SWELL 14 FT…BUILDING TO 18 FT. RAIN.

THU
SW WIND 5 TO 15 KT…BECOMING S 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES
2 TO 3 FT…BUILDING TO 5 TO 7 FT. NW SWELL 17 TO 18 FT. CHANCE OF
SHOWERS.

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