If I could have a few weeks (months, years) like yesterday, I would be in heaven. Enough to the waves to make them fun, but not so much as to be scary. Enough of a crowd to not feel lonely, but not so many people as to have to fight for a peak. Excellent surfers to admire, but some mere mortals to provide perspective. Waves that started off slow in the higher tide provided a chance to regain some confidence, which meant I feel better about challenging myself as they jacked up on the outgoing. A moment of sun, a lack of wind, good company? No wonder I stayed till dark.
What a motivator to get back into shape. Life feeds itself, I’ve noticed. The more I use my body, the more likely I am to stretch, eat mindfully, drink tea instead of wine at night. The more late nights with drinking, the more likely I sleep in, overeat, chalk the day up as a loss and use that excuse to open another bottle. When I’m reading a lot, I’m motivated to write. When I’m constantly on the run, I forget to slow down. All makes sense, of course, but sometimes I need the reminder: Whatever I want to cultivate more of in my life must be at the top of my to-do list.