surf session#4,5

Hmmm… 5 days out of a possible 57 so far? That’s not a promising start to the year, especially considering twice I’ve surfed twice in a day, so it’s really only 3 days out of 57. Yikes. Anyway, waist-to-chest-high and soft, for those of you following. Glassy. Cars and trucks lining the peninsula. I surfed Bunkers and didn’t think shark thoughts, even when the harbor porpoises popped up black and surprising.


2 thoughts on “surf session#4,5”

  1. been reading ya for awhile and finally had the urge to write…lived and surfed Hum ’72-’84, in the day, when the loc tribe was a dirty dozen of bro’s and us searchers were a hand full…the redwood curtain was our asylum were the waves rang with pac noire juice…we surfed the waves we saw before the names were changed to protect the…your feelings about your sessions ring with me, i can feel the dolo sets from the southwest with a sou-east wind and the west nor-west rounding camel on a sunny glassy day…and we were the first to paddle up the beach from the n. jetty when we called it ‘sand point’ and paddled into waves that reminded me of sunset beach…i’ve taken the time to listen to your radio show, for a change of pace…so, adios y con mucho gusto amiga, papa g…you can take the man out of humboldt but you can’t take the redwoods out of the man…

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