surf session#6

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm. Yeah.

EDIT: I was working in Safari and had to switch to Firefox (not everything is set up for Macs in this world, sadly); much as I wish I was on surf session#69 so far in 2008, I’m only, sadly, at #6. But, oh, was it fun. Ideal conditions for me. If I was surfing all the time, I might’ve wished for a bit more oomph, but under the circumstances, slightly overhead, playful, just bumpy enough to keep the crowd away, plenty of waves, gentle enough to negate any worry about taking off late, fast enough to be fun… Yeah. Me and three guys. Loved it. I came out of the water with my shoulders three inches lower – back where they should be, instead of wedged up under my ears with tension.

I need more of this.

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