surf session #8, the Resurrection Session

Easter Sunday, dawn patrol.

Perfect. Not “perfect” in the sense that conditions were what everyone would want – but that doesn’t exist. A happy medium can be found in overhead and hollow, probably warm water, not too shallow, shark-free and warm, but my “perfect” consisted of overhead to head-and-a-half short interval, glassy clean organized waves at my favorite spot. I could catch nothing but those rights for the rest of my life and die happy.

Enough people were out that if I wanted to catch waves, I had to sit critical and take my turn. Being forced to take off later than my comfort zone suggested reminded me that I can, in fact, take off later than I think and still make it.

Did I mention the sunshine instead of the predicted rain?

Highlight: a solid head-and-a-half set rolled in. Guess who was sitting in position? And when you’re out and everyone’s yelling “Go!,” you have to go – or else not bother showing up again. I saw the wave standing up and doubted my ability to make it, but couldn’t not attempt it. Amazingly, as I paddled, felt the force of the ocean gather below me, watched my board drop away, I managed to land on my feet – I must’ve had quite the “Omigod!” look on my face – and zip down the clean slope before the whitewater caught up and hurled me forward.

“Isn’t it great to have witnesses?” J said when I paddled back, my grin so big my cheeks hurt.

Yeah. It sure is. What a great, great morning. What a thrill to be reminded of what I can do. What an honor to be immersed in such fleeting beauty.


3 thoughts on “surf session #8, the Resurrection Session”

  1. I love when you have friends in the water who are cheering you on, but the greatest thing for me was when an older gentleman just riding in the shallows, looked to me and said, “memorable ride, huh?” That was the best. When others around you can recognize your excitement and determination, it really connects you to what you are doing. A strangers praise can be all you need to try harder. Congrats on such an awesome session.


  2. Thanks for taking me with you.

    I can’t find time to do all the amazing things in this world. For a moment, your writing made me feel like I had surfed.

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