surf session#18

Um… sometime last week, when I had a successful run of waking up early and driving off to look at the surf. Or was that the week before? Spring is crazy-making and not in the frisky nature way, but in the wow-to-get-everything-done-I’ve-got-to-get-up-at-5 a.m.-and-not-stop-moving-and-still-at-the-end-of-the-day-I’m-left-with-too-many-good-intentions-left-unfollowed kind of way.

More on that, or not, later. Right now I have about 40 minutes to catch up on all things blog-relevant: surf, diabetes, writing, reading, walking on the beach, money, bike, family, aikido. And that limoncello post.

As far as that surf session, the waves would’ve been much more fun if I weighed 80 pounds less and was a foot shorter. Imagine them just sort of falling over and dissipating, rather than forcefully breaking and propelling energy forward.

But, hey! A lot of paddling. That felt good. Good enough that with each reach and pull, I could imagine this being a regular part of my life again. Today, however, with a swell of 2 at 7, will not be that day.

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2 thoughts on “surf session#18”

  1. Where is this break? I don’t recognize the background. It almost looks like the break at that sand bar opposite the CG station on the jetty. Inquiring minds want to know.

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