surf session #19, #20, #21

19: Jetty, on a tiny day back in May. Better than nothing.

20: Crescent City, last Saturday. Mushy, with onshore winds, but I didn’t care about anything except paddling around. A moment or two of actually gliding through some dumpy closeouts felt like heaven.

21: Crescent City, last Sunday. Mushy, with onshore winds. The novelty had worn off.

Man, I need to surf more.

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