surf sessions #25, 26, 27

#25: Middles. A very nice peak close to the Jetty proper didn’t appeal to Bobby, who hadn’t surfed the spit in a while, so we moved up the beach a bit – some people call it “Middles” because you’re in the middle of the Jetty and Bunkers. I’ve heard that spot referred to as “Betty’s,” also, because you’re between Bunkers and the Jetty – get it? Cute.

So, fairly nice day, clean swell, the wind clocking around a bit, but never coming up too much. The waves looked knee-high from the shore, but turned out to be closer to shoulder-high when we paddled out to them. Although the outside was where the inside would normally be – small south swell action – getting through the shorebreak was a pain. We kept getting shoved back to shore by the pitching walls of water. Amazing how you can be waist-deep, walking, yet still fail to make progress. And, as usual, when we were looking, the ocean stayed relatively calm, making the paddle out look easy, but as soon as we stepped bootie into water, the ocean reared up, smacked us down, reminded us who was in charge.

Right.

The session was kind of a bust, despite the small, clean, pretty waves, because they broke in such a way – building up steep and pitching – that making the drops was almost impossible for those of us who are not hot-shot longboarders. Still happy to be trying, though.

#26: Jetty: I was thinking Bunkers, but people were both coming in and looking at the Jetty. With little time to spare, I just suited up and went out, figuring something would work out. Something did “work out” – my arms, as I paddled around and around in teeny tiny surf angling to get into a wave. Actually, “wave” may be overstating what I was attempting to ride. Maybe if I was four-feet tall and 60 lbs. Even what I stood up on failed to move me.

I had noticed, as I jogged to the beach, that the guys who had been out were stand-up paddleboarders, which means they can ride two-inches of swell and still be propelled forward. Note to self: don’t use stand-up paddleboarders to judge your odds.

More good exercise anyway.

#27: Power Poles. A quick evening session with Bobby. Glassy, head-high, a bit of work to get out there – classic. Felt so good to make a drop down the face after so many sessions of little waves. (Dropping down is much easier than pushing up!) And the south winds, south swell smooth everything out, bring an anticipatory clarity to scene. The water rose and fell steel blue blending against a sky that teased rain.

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