surf session #28

Bunkers, Jetty: Bobby took Nick to his SF doctor’s appointment; Kaylee tagged along to hang out in Healdsburg with Chelsea. Suddenly, I was home alone. I cleaned the house and it stayed that way. Nobody needed breakfast or lunch or dinner or a ride somewhere or to be picked up. No pile of laundry arrived from the upstairs. Once the kibble was scooped and poured, my work was done.

Thus temporarily unburdened by responsibility, I dawn patrolled yesterday morning (more correctly, the friend I cajoled into meeting me dawn patrolled; I arrived slightly after). Gray stretched from one edge of the world to another, blending into an ocean similarly colored, more liquid steel than glass, waist-high waves pitching forward prettily, here, there, everywhere. And by that, I mean the peaks shifted rather than lined-up.

M called from the beach that the Jetty was too small, so we met and paddled out at Bunkers. I chased down some waves, waved at the seal who kept popping up nearby, enjoyed the effort of paddling. When M had to leave, I decided to join the several people I could now see out at the Jetty.

Once re-parked, I traded boards, the 7’6″ fun for the 9’2″ longboard. Haven’t longboarded in months, but if ever conditions warranted some length, these were them. Usually when I take that board out, I end up pearling or otherwise too far up on the nose – takes me the whole session to reorient. This time, however, I paid attention and remained enough forward to catch the waves, but not so much that the nose plunged under upon my standing up. And although most of the waves lacked enough ooomph to get into, every so often a sweet chest-high set would roll through, peeling perfectly right. That, and the laid-back early morning guys, made part two of the session well worth it.

And when I say “worth it,” I mean of the two hours and 37 minutes I invested in surfing yesterday morning, I spent at least 50 seconds actually riding waves. Seems crazy, doesn’t it?

But if you do the math –

10 minutes loading truck and making tea

14 minutes driving out

4 minutes looking

12 minutes suiting up, waxing board, walking to water

10 minutes paddling out, lining up

out of 35 minutes in the water, five waves lasting 4-5 seconds each

6 minutes paddling in

1 minute driving down beach

8 minutes paddling out

out of 35 minutes in the water, three waves, one 15 seconds, the other two maybe 5 seconds each

6 minutes paddling in

8 minutes out of wetsuit, restacking boards in truck

6 minutes b.s.-ing

12 minutes driving home

– you see, it’s true.

And when I say “worth it,” I absolutely mean it.

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