surf sessions #35, #36

These were unremarkable, other than #36 took place out over the dunes from my house. Trying to get back in the habit of walking out and over the heebie jeebies of surfing alone. Not that I mind surfing alone at Jetty or Camel – which hardly ever happens any more – with the (false) comfort of a nearby promontory. In the open ocean, though, shaking off the vulnerability factor is nearly impossible. On the plus side, too nervous to sit still and wait, I do get a lot of paddling in. So, yeah, plenty of exercise, that’s about the extent of last two sessions.

But Bobby’s taking K to school this morning, giving Nick and I time for a dawn patrol. I wish it was still light this early. The erosion of the light in September kills me. Where did summer go?


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