surf sessions #37, #38, #39, #40

Wow… 40. And 99 days left in the year. Here’s to a fine fall.

#37: Jetty with Nick. The buoys read 3 at 11, 3 at 12. When we arrived post-dawn, a gaggle of longboarders were catching waist-high waves on a pretty little inside peak. By the time we suited up, the tide had sucked out enough that the outside started breaking – overhead. Would’ve been perfect for me solo, but not so much with the boy. We gamely opted for the reforms, which were still about shoulder-high to Nick. We spent a lot of time paddling and trying to avoid getting smashed in the impact zone.

#38: This time we made it to the Jetty pre-sunrise (Bobby took Kaylee to school today and the day before, enabling these sessions). This time, the swell came in and stayed waist-to-chest high. This time, Nick’s friends came out and joined us. Plenty of clean little waves, ocean so glassy, wind light offshore, hooting and hollering boys… all mornings should be such fun. Oh, and I even goofed around on a stand-up paddleboard. That was entertaining.

#39: Back to the Jetty for an afternoon surf with Kaylee. Not quite as good as the morning – the swell dropped even more, making it a bit too micro – but K caught waves. And I was happy. (I sound like The Giving Tree: “And the tree was happy.”)

#40: Classic fall Moonstone. The overhead sets made for a long paddle out (lazy Jetty-channel surfer that I am), but a long right made the effort worth it. Sunshine and a hundred people in the water (no, I didn’t count, but the line stretching along the outside was long) – sadly, our time was short. We were, as usual, On A Schedule.

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