(Tuesday night involved much cheering, hugging and repeated telling to my children, “This is a historic moment!” Thank goodness a friend with a TV hosted an election get together. If I never find a moment to write properly about what transpired that night, let this small paragraph serve to bookmark an occasion when the American dream was resurrected.)
#47, #48 and #49 all took place last week, up from the Jetty, consisting of small waves that provided a combination of fun and a reminder of how much I need to surf more regularly yadda yadda yadda.
#50 happened this afternoon. A few small, slow waves I barely pulled into and then a steeper, head high right in which everything clicked and my brain went oh my god this is the most fun thing ever in the world.
And another one.
God, I love to surf.
(Now waiting for N’s blood sugar to rise a bit, so I can drift back into sleep.)