Truly beautiful out. Unfortunately, I arrived to find 20 trucks parked on the sand, with that many people and half again in the water. Not feeling my best, I spent too much time – wasted too much time – trying to pick off inside waves and low-energy rights. Finally I’d had enough, paddled toward the peak proper. The sun had set earlier, making for dramatic rays shooting up over the jetty wall. Moonlight shimmered on the ocean surface. This would be a perfect moment in which to catch a great wave, I thought. And then the set came, catching me just a fraction too far inside. The whitewater swept me toward shore, tapered off and reformed into a bit of a wave proper that I rode in as far as I could. Hardly the triumphant moment I’d imagined. This was one of those sessions that will serve to remind me what not to do in the future.

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