surf session #54

What is wrong with me today? I mean, besides my inability to quickly get to my feet and an utter lack of anything resembling coordination. Beautiful day. I paddled out in front, so no crowd. Small, clean waves rolling steadily in. All I did was flounder.

My neighbor surfs out there like Baryshnikov. I’m some sort of slapstick.

I don’t expect to be good. But, sheesh.

Unfortunately the only way to get better is to surf more and work through this fugly phase. Oooh – and get my body back in fighting shape, which deserves a whole post of its own.

(So much I’m not posting about. Parental frustrations, horrible things I’ve read in the news, the continual financial tightrope, funny sightings along Broadway, a comparison of the best and worst places to stop for air in Eureka… I need to gather my thoughts on some serious topics. But right now, my own mental and physical health are the sources from which all else must spring.)

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