surf session #57



The best session I’ve had all year.


I didn’t dawn patrol given the 38 degree morning – not quite that hardcore – but as soon as the sun warmed the day up a bit, I was out. Head-high, overhead on the sets, I made every wave but the one I took off on while it was breaking.

No wind. No clouds. Just peeling wave after peeling wave under blue sky. Plenty for everyone. Porpoises popping up in the channel now and again.

I stayed out until my arms felt like overcooked noodles, my feet were numb and my calves cramping from the cold.



2 thoughts on “surf session #57”

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s