surf session #3

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5 thoughts on “surf session #3”

  1. Oh, thought I could take off later than I could. The mind was there, but the body, not so much. Looked down the face of the wave to watch my board go vertical as I was flung forward, smashed down, spun till I didn’t know which way was up, climbed up my leash to the surface, sputtered my way to shore.

    Nothing out of the ordinary!

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