surf session #9

This was last Saturday – the same day I flew with the Coast Guard. Nick and I pulled up to the overlook for all of a millisecond; that’s all we needed to go, “yeah!” We rushed into our wetsuits. As much as one can “rush” tight, sticky neoprene over bare skin.

A friend loaned him a board to try – fish-shaped, quad fins, excellent – after his mishap at Bunkers. (Bunkers! Always bad news!) We trotted down the steps, me hollering, “Be careful with the board!” about every 30 seconds. (Because that’s useful, you know, when someone is telling you repeatedly to be careful when you already are worried about letting anything happen.)

Fun, peeling rights awaited. Except, the tide was pushing in rapidly. So rapidly that in the few minutes it took to paddle out, the influx of water negated any power the waves had, turning what should have been fun sets into mushy bumps. Just as we’d reached the line-up, a friend took a long right in. That was the last wave anyone caught, even the longboarders who were out. Nick and I ended up catching some reform lefts in Gremmie Cove, just to do something. What a disappointment.

Today, 7 at 11, light offshores. Just about perfect for me. And what do I have this morning? My usual pre-KSLG chunk of time? No, in a near-ironic coincidence, we scheduled our Surfrider Foundation Humboldt Chapter board meeting for 8:30 a.m. Of course, if I leave for the beach now… hmmm….

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