surf sessions #12, #13

No time to write properly – pancake duty calls – but surfed Sunday (with Sandow Birk, which really deserves some elaboration, some of which you can find in today’s NCJ) and Tuesday. Sunday’s session featured sun, no wind, shoulder-to-head-high lefts and rights. Amazing fun. Yesterday’s session happened on an incoming high; the waves could only be caught right before they broke, a bit challenging to get into, but I ended on a long left-to-right that took me to shore. Not a bad way to start the day.

I was running late, so drove the truck to Ferndale to be on time to work, then collected compost from my generous gardening co-worker (who has BABY GOATS) in order to justify the extra mileage on the truck. Currently my surfboard sits in the truck on top of a bed of straw and goat poop. Very Humboldt.

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