surf session #18: when size doesn't matter

Yes, any smaller and I’d be hard pressed to refer to the breaking swells as waves. Yes, I rode the longboard, again. Yes, the waist-high peak served up more zip than one might realize from shore. Yes, I caught a million lefts and even managed to turn the damn longboard a few times – an acheivement a long time coming!

Yes, it was stupidly fun. Sometimes surfing makes me happy like a dog with his head out the window on a car ride. Love it love it love it.

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