Surf sessions #36, #37, #38, #39

#36: Moonstone, two weeks ago. Small and mushy, still windless and warm.

#37: Later that evening, somewhere else. Tide sucking out. What was waist-high there is head-high here. Much more fun, albeit bumpy. My last wave feels like riding down a staircase. So much so, I laugh out loud. The seal gazing at me is not impressed.

#38: More pretty waves. I mar them with my graceless ways. I ask the same question I always ask: How can I be so bad at something I love so much?

#39: International Surfing Day. Humboldt Surfrider hosts a beach clean-up at Moonstone. The swell’s bumped up, along with the north wind. I would’ve skipped the paddle out, but our volunteers persisted. By the time I reach the outside, I’ve been swept halfway to Clam Beach. But the walls of whitewater don’t translate into rideable waves once there, just mountainous mush. Totally stupid, but so bad, I crack up. Cold, windy, choppy, sloppy, overhead mushburgers… Happy International Surfing Day, Humboldt-style!

Looked today, but not in the right place at the right time. Our weeks of tiny, clean and warm 3 at 9 fades, replaced by this north wind-generated (and therefore cold and junky) 10 at 12. The options become 1.) suck it up and throw myself into conditions that still scare me more than I care to admit; 2.) scale down and “surf” those novelty spots that only work when both height and interval hit double digits; 3.) the gym and running along the ocean instead of into it.

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2 thoughts on “Surf sessions #36, #37, #38, #39”

  1. Though I’m at work right now, my mindset for the weekend is very similar to what you’re thinking about today; though replace the gym and running with a distance bicycle ride.

    1. I rode my bike the other evening, just about 6 miles or so. The road was flat, the wind had died, the sun was settled comfortably into the west. I passed cows and egrets, dilapidated barns and, once off the highway, not a single car. As I pedaled, I thought, this is exactly how I like a bike ride: easy and beautiful. I’m totally lazy on the bike – and greatly admire those of you who do the long-distance thing!

      My gym is excellent: Praxis Fitness in Eureka. I’m so lucky for this particular radio station perk. Not one for the typical gym mentality, but Praxis is no typical gym. I may be in the best shape of my life by fall – so I’ll have no excuses for avoiding the bigger surf!

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