surf sessions #40, #41

Dizzying few weeks…

#40 was sometime a while ago, junky surf out front, fun because we were with friends.

#41 was yesterday, junky surf at Moonstone, fun because I was with Nick and K and the sun came out – and this one particular right that came in a little bigger, little faster, held a little longer than the others, lasted long enough to send me into momentary mindless joy. Right. That’s why I should do this more often.

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