Surf session #51

Squeezed a session in between work and volunteer obligations yesterday. My body begged for the stretch, my skills need the sharpening, the sunshine’s persistence was too great to ignore. Had the spot to myself and made the best of the closing out waves and occasional left that held. The low-pressure practice buoyed my mood. The endlessly sucking current worked my shoulders. I finally tired and allowed myself to drift north of the foghorns, where the promise of a final left dissipated in whitewater. Anyone watching would’ve thought me a kook as I flopped off my board – but they would’ve been too far away to see the grin on my face.

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