I sure feel like I’m missing some sessions, but better to have surfed and not had time to write about it than record mourning about not surfing… although along that note, I did not get out the past couple days, which I hear was a mistake. Poor me.
Anyway, #62: The slow, slopy waves called for the longboard, which my South Beach session had inspired a fondness for – although watching CM ride waves with unerring grace reminded me that just because I’m catching more waves doesn’t mean I’m actually looking any better on them! He’s an amazingly good longboarder. I wrote a story for the Eye about him and three of his friends – together, team Wabi Sabi – when they were just teens winning surf contests up and down the Pacific Northwest. My favorite part was hearing his dad explain that they were down in Santa Cruz when C was 15 and saw an advertisement for surf classes. Dad wanted to do it, but C was reluctant to be seen as a dork – teenagers! – so Mike had to practically force him. And then the kid took to it like breathing, finished high school early and started traveling the world. Now the Wabi Sabi kids are all grown up. Or as grown up as surfers ever get.
#63: Speaking of Wabi Sabi, there’s PM walking on water…. Oh, this was a fun day! Slightly overhead on the sets, a little mushy but in the way that makes me feel okay about taking off late, not that makes the waves hard to catch. Long lefts, fast rights – and the air had to be close to 70 degrees! Sunshine! I’m grinning just remembering it.