Yes, I have been too busy surfing to blog.
Three sessions six days into the new year. Hey, so far I’m meeting my perennial goal of surfing on at least half the days!
And how was it? Fabulous. Fun. Admittedly, longboardy – I took my 7’6″ funboard; Nick rode the longboard the first two days, Kaylee the third – but so clean and consistent. Head-high on Sunday, chest-to-overhead on Monday, waist-to-chest yesterday. Rights that went on and on and on, steepening as they went. Air so still and free of wind, it felt as if magic imbued it. Miraculously sunny one day, spotty rain the next, a mix of both yesterday with the sunset breaking through the clouds and lighting up a pink-orange path along the wave face. Lined up with the foghorn and the cookie rock to catch a tiny wave that nonetheless sped up and took me all the way to the channel where the beach meets the rocks. Amazing how something so simple can trigger such immense pleasure.
Hoping for day four today….