surf sessions #14, #15, #16, #17, #18

#14: South Beach, Crescent City. Classic CC – sunny, warm, slight sideshore breeze, waist-high, clean, peeling, longboardy rights and lefts. I should’ve brought a longboard. Nonetheless, had fun on the 7’6″. Lots of fun.

#15: Somewhere down the spit. I waited too long to leave the computer, resulting in a situation where I knew I really didn’t have time to go, but couldn’t stand to miss the clean swell and sunshine, because that would make me a total loser as a surfer. Which resulted in a situation where I was stressed out, unable to shake it, surfed badly and felt like a total loser as a surfer.

#16: Moonstone. More waist-high fun in the sun – made fun specifically because K finally agreed to go surfing because we finally were able to get her a new (aka warm) wetsuit and the swell finally dropped and the sun finally came out. Despite the months of protest (her wetsuit really was worn out aka cold), she had no trouble catching wave after wave. Ah, to be young and able to bounce back!

#17: Later that same day… Convinced Nick to paddle out at a spot closer to home. Wasn’t too hard to do given the miniature perfection of the waves. Again with the waist-high, clean, peeling rights and lefts. A neighbor joined, effortlessly defining “style” on every one of the zillion waves he caught.

#18: Best Mother’s Day ever! They made me waffles for breakfast, then K, Nick and I paddled out together into those same fabulously fun conditions that continued to hold all the way through the weekend. I love when, after days of howling spring northwesterlies, the wind stops. Everything holds so suddenly still, as if time itself has paused. Magic. K caught a bajillion waves, Nick and I held our own, Bobby and Chelsea cheered from shore. What a great place to be, that moment.

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