surf session #22, #23, #24

My new board. Someone's else's very sweet dog.

#22: If our eyes really can see 10 million colors, then that’s how many shades of blue and gray painted Friday morning, tinged with pink and kissed by the slightest offshore breeze. Several folks surfed up the beach, where the sets came in overhead. I would’ve given it a happy go, but a woman I know said she was heading down the beach to try the pretty little lefts coming through unridden. I followed her, and we spent the next hour swapping waist-to-chest high waves that peeled and peeled and seemed endless in supply. Just us. The sun broke through and blued up the sky. A porpoise popped up and stayed near. Good call.

#23: Camel Rock, a short session with Bobby and Nick squeezed in during K’s horseback riding lesson.

#24: Memorial Day family surf. Sometimes I get a little cranky about how long it takes to get everyone out of the house – when it’s just me, I can dawn patrol, go from bed to out the door in 10 minutes, maybe 15 if I make some tea. But with the family, I have to let them sleep in, make sure everyone has breakfast and that all the boards, all the right gear (“Which booties? Are these your old ones or new ones? Who needs gloves? Are these your gloves or Dad’s?”). Meanwhile, the wind teases about coming up, the tide passes…. By the time we arrive out where we need to be, my minimal supply of patience is near tapped. God help them if the surf’s no good, because I’m sure if only we’d been there an hour ago, we would’ve caught it. Fortunately, yesterday’s session yielded hours of glassy, small waves that in turn left everyone grinning and raving about how much fun we’d had.

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