A bit of calm, or at least less north wind. Spent two hours surfing in the morning with Bobby, then went back in the evening for another session with Nick. Left-go-rights for days. Summerfuntime board paying off. Made a gazillion waves with the only problem being I can’t take off late on such a big board. Had one memorable wipe-out trying to make a shoulder-high drop straight down – ended up pearling, spinning, then rocketing forward, dragged along backward so that the ocean forcefully intruded into my sinus cavity. Dripped saltwater out my nostrils for hours after.
When first paddling out after a dry spell, the groove doesn’t always come immediately. Each action is separate: position self, watch swell, decide if it’s worth trying to catch, turn, paddle, do I have it?, push self into standing position, swing arm around so board will follow, shift weight till optimum speed and control is obtained. The more waves caught, the more each move clicks into place: I know where to line up, which waves to go for, my timing improves, I get more out of each wave. With enough repetition, the sequence merges into a single state of flow: judgepaddlecatchpopflygrin.
Note: I used to mark the sessions on my wall calendar – I have a collection of years of calendars dotted with surf spot names, happy faces, sad faces, short descriptions. Not surf journal-worthy, but still a nice reminder that This Is Something I Do. Since I started tracking on the blog, I definitely write more about the individual sessions, but the overall pattern is harder to discern.
What I can tell is, I need to surf more! The year is more than half over!