Surfing doesn’t cure everything, but when you’re busy dodging sets and paddling for waves and maybe scoring a moment or two of bliss in between, all your troubles sure do recede for a while. And without all that trouble taking up space all over your mind, happiness has a place to sit down and relax for a while.
Typical Northern Californian session – a whole lot of work for very occasional award. There we all were, dealing with currents and a fickle peak and yet nobody seemed to wish to be anywhere else. Not too much wind, a sky threatening to turn blue. My kid on a shortboard chatting with surfers who’ve watched him grow up among the waves.
Yes, a little bit of this goes a long, long way.