surf session #39

Crammed into the Embassy Suites glass elevator with our boards.

In SLO. Skipped Pismo in favor of Montaña de Oro. Well, thereabouts. Not sure exactly where we were in the scheme of things, but we were in a state park and could see Morro Rock. Much more inviting than Pismo Beach – although I had an unexpected nostalgia looking around from the pier. Pismo looks so California 1970, like how other places looked before the condo and strip mall devolution.

But this beach, Montaña de Oro or wherever we were, had sand dunes, flowering vegetation, chunks of logs washed up – kind of like home, only warm enough I didn’t have to wear booties.

And, oh! During the paddle out, I really missed the channel. Took me forever to get out and then a long time to dial the waves in. Finally, though, I caught some. And they were fun.

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