Catching up – these were a while back. All at the same place. #35 found me on the 7’5″, a change from the floaty 8’0″ I’ve been riding. Sure felt small. I wondered if I’d even be able to stand up or if I’d just slip and wobble and fall over. Reached the corner just as a sweet peak stood up, turned, caught it, landed on my feet, the board followed every twist and weight shift of my body and I found myself way down the line at the conclusion of a pretty fine wave. Sweet. And the pattern continued throughout the next hour.
And then, the next two sessions, lest I think I’m actually getting the hang of this, I completely kooked out.
Sigh.
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