surf sessions #43, #44, #45

On the way – I love the bay full and glassy.

#43: A totally ridiculous session at Moonstone. A friend’s only opportunity to surf, so we went out despite the howling wind and sloppy surf. Just walking from the parking lot to the car meant battling the wind as it tried to rip my board from my arms. At least the sun was out. And it wasn’t crowded.

#44: Like flypaper, the first stop attracts the majority of surfers. I passed them, the sunny morning disappearing in the fog as I cruised south. Sun is nice, but fog kept a lot of folks out of the water that morning. The waves were nothing spectacular. I surfed for two hours and then some anyway. Just me and one guy who drifted out of sight after a while – tired of fighting the current, I think, so I kept an eye on him best I could until he disappeared. I worried a bit, then found him again, close to shore, went back to catching my own little peaky rights. A friend came out, then a paddleboarder, then by the time I left, a half-dozen people were suiting up. That long, mostly solo surf into exhaustion was just what I needed.

#45: Back at Moonstone, this time without the wind. The waves still suck, partly due to the short interval. You fight through all this whitewater just to get outside and catch gutless waves that close out. I mean, Moonstone is AWESOME! Everybody should surf there!

It’s all about the fall. Working on my drops, keeping my paddling strong. Is it just me, or does anyone else feel the bite in the air?

One thought on “surf sessions #43, #44, #45”

  1. Yep, I feel it too. Dusted off the boards, stripped the old wax off and put on fresh coats. Can’t wait for those lovely autumn swells to start rolling through.

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