Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooh the surf was fun today. Much less wind. I caught little lefts of the point for a while, then moved over to the bigger faster peak in front of the river. Immediately caught two overhead lefts, one after the other, both swooping drops and shoulders than went on and on.
It was about that point the ocean decided to remind me, “I can still kick your ass.” I spent the next 15 minutes getting smacked in the impact zone. The channel to the outside mysteriously disappeared, leaving me with one face full of whitewater after another. Eventually I powered through. Waited. Reveled in the rare pleasure of tropical water and warm sun on my bare skin. Watched the locals catch some set waves. Then, this beautiful right stood up perfectly aligned with my position. I paddled. I caught it. Zoom, carve, drop, crouch, drop into the next section, repeat all the way to shore. Fantastic end to my session.
And then a simple lunch of dumplings, bananas and wax apples, followed by a nap — I am enjoying this lifestyle — and then a trip over to Sammy’s friend’s place. (His name is Achi, pronounced just like it sounds.) We’d gone over there a couple days ago and I loved it, wanted to go back and take photos. So I took the photos and we spent the afternoon talking surf and having drinks. Same old thing, brand new place. Is that good or bad? Followed by another delish dinner at Bossa Nova, an exhilarating run to the Kenting night market on Achi’s scooter.
In between, I ended up with some unexpected work, nothing major, but I spent more time online than anticipated. The blog and video and picture and Facebook postings are all fun — I am enjoying sharing as the days unfold — but maybe it’s kind of weak to spend so much of my time on the internet?