#61: Long, cold lefts on a stunningly calm day. Everyone else was at spots A, B and C. I checked C and opted to drive a bit further south, where I found those notable (albeit smaller and less pitching) lefts and a crowd of one. Which ballooned up to three as I was leaving.
In between was one of those sessions where the catching of waves came easy and the number caught ended up in the “more than I can count” range. Other than being forced into wearing gloves due to the 50 degree water (and 49 degree air), a thoroughly enjoyable way to spend an hour.
#62: Bigger rights. I’d expected the swell to be too big, the place to be a mess. I almost didn’t even go. I had a lot on my mind. But as I paced around my house, stopping to answer email, fold laundry, take a phone call, I realized the only way to silence the thoughts caroming around my head would involve neoprene and saltwater.
Saltwater which had warmed up to a balmy 54 — yay. Wearing gloves annoys me. So much harder to paddle and I miss the tactile sensation of the waxed board against my hands.
Howling offshore winds (gusts up to 30 mph?!). I debated between the 7’8″ gun and the 8’0″ chunky board. I opted to go heavy, not sure it was the best choice as the wind still caught the nose as I tried to paddle into waves, but things worked out okay.
“Okay” as in I had some really fun waves, a couple of wipeouts and was caught inside a set long enough that I had time to contemplate how much I enjoy breathing. The wipeouts happened because I had to make late drops and, as I tend to do, I stood up too fast in trying to make them. So I ended up perched at the top surveying my impending doom before the actual falling-tumbling-dragged-underwater-as-my-board-goes-on-without-me.
Good practice on all aspects of surfing. And the sky yesterday! So beautiful, all day long, as if some celestial artist woke up inspired and had nothing to do but indulge in that inspiration all day long.