surf session #1

This photo has nothing to do with my surf session, but it was a pretty sunset.

Cold, junky and wish I’d spent as much time catching waves as caught inside, but also glittering with sunshine and exactly the sanity check I needed.

Post-session calm.

Paddled out on the longboard, realized the waves were both bigger and steeper than they looked from shore, caught a left (barely — the drop was dicey, but I landed on my feet and made a bottom turn), turned right when it sectioned, paddled in, swapped the cruiser for the 7’5″, paddled back out to find my friend paddling in, took a few sets on the head before tiring of the treadmill — on one side of the peak, the rip shoved me out to sea; on the other, the current sucked me into the impact zone.

Caught something in, called it good. And it was. When I don’t surf, normal gets all screwed up. When I’m in the ocean, perspective is restored.



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