Never stop paddling.
Take off late.
Ignore the cold coursing through your wetsuit after wiping out. Likewise, when you’re clinging to the rail in a desperate crouching attempt to make the drop, but fail and end up inadvertently yanking the board into your head as the wave tumbles all around you, just nevermind that. And when you paddle into the wave too late and stand up too soon, elevator-dropping all the way to hitting ocean floor, just let it go.
Because the times you get it right are so worth it.